Dairy farms fight to survive — and have fun

NORTH CANAAN — Even with 880 head of cows to milk three times each day, the watchword at Laurelbrook Farm is diversity. It’s about looking at every angle, to save and earn — and keep one of the largest remaining dairy farms in the state working and profitable. Manure is composted into a saleable product. The cows and the things they do are monitored by computers down to the number of steps they take each day. A more than 15 percent change in any cow’s daily average movement can be a clue to health concerns.Just down the road from Laurelbrook, at Freund’s Farm, innovation plays a major role as well.Both are multigenerational farms. Both are surviving and even thriving at a time when dairy farms are disappearing from New York state and New England at a brisk pace.And both are part of the Cabot Creamery Cooperative, supplying to the Vermont-based cheese and dairy product company (which the farmers all own shares in).Sunday was the annual Cabot Farms tour. Visitors were welcomed to the two North Canaan farms for tours and free cheese, and a chance to climb on giant tractors, ride hay wagons and visit busy milking parlors. Each bovine produces up to 10 gallons of milk a day.Both farms are great examples of how a real passion can make the difference between struggling in what can be a very difficult business, and making a success of it.“It’s a big responsibility,” said Bobby Jacquier, whose grandfather started Laurelbrook, and whose teenage sons are now involved. “But we all work together, and we have a heck of a lot of fun.”

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