Selling a Vision, Too

   I have my orders from a friend and colleague at The Lakeville Journal: Return from Little Gates, the new wine shop that just opened in Millerton, NY, with a bottle of white for under $20. Under $15, even better.

   Judging by appearances, that might not be a snap (I don’t say slam-dunk anymore). The storefront on South Center Street — a spot that looks to be coming up in the world — is marked by an elegant, dark-green awning. The interior is cool (68 degrees: fine to keep the wine temporarily. Fifty-seven degrees is ideal for long storage, I’m informed, but that’s too cold to work in), the walls are painted a soft burnt sienna, the color of old Italian farmhouse walls, I think, and the place smells pleasantly of the new redwood wine racks.    

   In one corner I find a pair of  roomy, turquoise blue, faux Louis Quinze (my guess) chairs where I perch to speak to the people in charge: two of the partners in this venture, Andrew Gates and his wife, Andrus,  and manager Warren Carter. The third partner is Will Little, “wine enthusiast and collector,â€� as Andrew Gates describes him. Little is also chairman of George Little Management, LLC, and, as chairman of  The Lakeville Journal Company, LLC, he is my boss. Little is not in town at the moment.

   “We wanted to open a wine store that combines three elements,â€� Carter, the manager, explains. This one-time player in banking and capital markets, retired, sort of, to Litchfield County where he answered an ad in The Lakeville Journal for a wine shop manager. He called Little and the two hit it off. “Our vision meshed,â€� Carter said, that vision being to open a store with a “warm, inviting environment,â€� build an inventory heavy on “artisanal wines from all over the world,â€� and offer customers information about wine. That last means plenty of interesting books for sale, daily wine tastings, discussions with food and wine experts and general chitchat. “The idea is to introduce people to something a little different.â€�

   “One of the most important things here is providing the possibility of discovering great wines at great value,â€� Andrus Gates tells me, pointing out a Spanish wine for $8.50, and a “really deliciousâ€� grenache for $7.75.

   Of course, the beautiful redwood wine racks also make room for celebrated French Bordeaux ranging from $90 to $1,000. Yes. $1,000.

   And there is a small selection of spirits, “to complete the dining experience,â€� Andrew Gates explains. That includes good tequila, Scotch, and aperitifs to stimulate the appetite before dinner, and digestifs, such as cognac, to aid digestion afterward.

   Andrew Gates, who sells real estate these days for Sotheby’s, met Little a few years back and the two became friends, and, eventually, partners.

   Gates loves wine and loves to talk wine, which means he is comfortable saying things like “fruit forward,â€� and “structure.â€� He is not engaged, however, by terms such as strawberry, melon and passion fruit to describe wines.

   “There’s a difference between describing fruit characteristics and marketing copy,â€� he says. Marketing copy does not interest him.

   So the idea here, the three tell me, is to offer customers a wide range of good wines and plenty of information for people who want to learn more.

   It’s time to pick up a wine for my friend.

   Andrus Gates looks around and selects a Grüner Veltliner white from Austria, which sells for $13.25.

   “It was light and springy,â€� my friend reports the next day.

   “A sort of cheese-and-crackers wine. And I’m all for the twist-off top.â€�

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