COVID-19 impacts different kinds of Harlem Valley farms differently
In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, Rock Steady Farm, located at 41 Kaye Road in Millerton, has been working hard to ensure the community has access to fresh produce. Photo submitted

COVID-19 impacts different kinds of Harlem Valley farms differently

HARLEM VALLEY — Advancing into the second month of the coronavirus pandemic, life in New York has changed dramatically to fit “the new normal,” with businesses closing their doors, school districts closed for the remainder of the academic year and residents donning face masks to carry out their daily routines. Yet farms in the local region have persevered to make fresh food available to consumers during these uncertain times. Though some of their operations have altered as a result of COVID-19, residents can rest assured that local farms are doing their best to keep operating and feed the community.

Located at 41 Kaye Road in Millerton, Rock Steady Farm has continued to harvest and distribute fresh produce during the pandemic. Whereas other large-scale farms have struggled with either having too few staff to harvest the food or having no place to distribute the food — thereby resulting in crops being disposed of —  farmer D. Rooney, one of the farm’s owners, said Rock Steady is blessed to be open and have an outlet for distributing its crops. Rather than reduce the amount of work hours on the farm, Rooney said there’s more than enough work to be done throughout the day — much of it done by volunteers through its Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program.

“We’re working with a purpose,” Rooney said. “We have an opportunity to not just farm — there’s a deeper purpose to the work and the farming that we’re doing right now.”

“We’re just pushing ahead trying our best to grow as much food as we can,” added Rock Steady Farm farmer and co-owner Maggie Cheney.

As a silver lining to the health crisis, Rooney mentioned that Rock Steady has been working with other organizations to get funders and help direct its produce into a local food system. 

As more people become aware of the value of their local farms during the pandemic, Rooney said, “It’s seemingly an eye-opening experience… that people are looking to buy local. They want to know their farmer more than ever, they want to know where their food is coming from, they want to know the precautions farmers are taking, so there’s an opportunity for a direct communication line between the farmer and the eater.

“This is something that’s been part of our ethos and our philosophy as farmers,” Rooney added. “There’s a lot of responsibility… and part of that is education. It’s education about the history of our food, why the practices that we employ on our farm are important to our farmers and our land and having people understand why it’s important to support local farms.”

Not including Rooney and Cheney, Rock Steady Farm has five employees working on the farm with a sixth employee expected to join the team in June.

Additionally, its trucks and equipment are constantly sprayed down with bleach and hand washing stations have been installed. Though there have yet to be reports of COVID-19 being transmitted through food, Rooney said they’ve been taking the necessary precautions for keeping everything safe. Rooney stressed the farm wants to assure its customers that such precautions are being enacted.

Given the number of people who have signed up to buy local, sustainably grown produce through the farm’s CSA program, Rooney remarked that this year is looking to be its strongest CSA season yet. With this year’s season set to start in the second week of June, residents can find out more about the program by going online to www.rocksteady.com.

Meanwhile in Pine Plains, the impact of COVID-19 has prompted Ronnybrook Farm Dairy to find creative ways to distribute its milk and dairy products. Located at 310 Prospect Hill Road, the farm currently has 38 employees working to keep the dairy running during the pandemic.

When asked how Ronnybrook Farm Dairy has been faring during the outbreak, farm co-owner Richard Osofsky said, “We’re somewhat unique in that we’re dairy farmers and dairy processors, so we not only milk the cows, we process the milk and sell it.”

The ultimate goal behind Ronnybrook Farm Dairy, Osofsky said, is to move the milk it produces through the cows to the dairy plant and then to the consumer. As far as how COVID-19 has influenced their operations, he explained that around 25% or more of the dairy’s products usually go to schools and food services. With school districts closed statewide for the remainder of the academic year and many restaurants closed for business (at least for dine-in service), the dairy has lost 25% of its business as a result. With both the dairy and its distributors getting creative to get their product out, Osofsky said they’ve found that the dairy has been doing “an awful lot of business at the farm selling off the dock.” Additionally, he said some of the dairy’s distributors have moved from doing food service to doing home delivery.

“Even though we’ve lost a considerable amount of business because of schools and restaurants, we’ve picked up some, so our sales are not down dramatically — but they’re down,” Osofsky said.

Osofsky went on to accredit the dairy’s survival during the pandemic to the Paycheck Protection Program (PPP) loan they received to pay their employees two months’ worth of salary. Along with finding new ways to distribute their dairy products, he mentioned that Ronnybrook Farm Dairy has been giving products away by donating to local nonprofits and food pantries.

“We’re cautiously optimistic,” Osofsky said in looking toward the future, “but I don’t know if that optimism is misplaced.”

In Millbrook, family-operated Walbridge Farm, located at 538 Route 343, has been overwhelmed by the increase in meat sales since the pandemic began. With sales up 300%, Walbridge Farm owner Doug Giles said the farm sold out of its Black Angus beef on Saturday, May 2, and now has pre-orders that will take the farm all the way into July.

Apart from the massive number of orders for fresh meat, COVID-19 has not otherwise had an impact on Walbridge Farm. Since all of the farm’s meat is processed off-site at a United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) facility and the farm’s workforce is relatively small, Giles said their daily lives haven’t really changed during the pandemic.

As a seventh generation family member whose career has revolved around agriculture, Giles has been paying attention to reports about dairy farmers who have been dumping milk since they don’t have a market to distribute to as well as reports of grocery stores enacting limits on meat. Costco is one large chain that just did so in recent days. (For more on dairy dumping, read Page A1.)

“I’ve been in agriculture my whole life,” Giles said when asked about his reaction to the impact of COVID-19. “We’ve had much bigger stress moments than this. This, too, shall pass.”

As farms and farmers continue operations to the best of their ability during the pandemic, both the local community and the federal government have pitched in to show their support for and raise awareness of the agricultural industry. In April, the NorthEast-Millerton Library held a virtual Meet Your Farmers information session to introduce residents to a handful of Hudson Valley farmers and share word of their services. 

Toward the end of April, Governor Andrew Cuomo launched the Nourish New York Initiative to stop the dumping of milk and process any excess milk into products that can be donated to or purchased by those in need. In addition, U.S. Representative Antonio Delgado (D-NY-19) introduced the Relief for America’s Small Farmers Act on Wednesday, April 29, to support small family farms in upstate New York by providing a one-time debt forgiveness of up to $250,000 across three different USDA loans, including Direct Farm Operating Loans, Direct Farm Ownership Loans and Emergency Loans.

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