Oodles of Noodles

Chefs prepare ramen at Below the Salt in Salisbury. Photo by Marsden Epworth

Ramen. No mystery. “It’s soup with noodles in it, topped with stuff,” David Chang tells us. In 2003, this Korean-American chef opened Momofuku Noodle Bar, a modest spot with a counter, backless stools and a very shaky start in Manhattan’s East Village, and now Chang’s company oversees various restaurants around the world with waiters, wine lists, reservations and a reverent press.

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