Mangos as a meal, a snack or a salsa

Generally I support the idea of eating local, in-season fruits and vegetables. There are some exceptions, though, and mangos are at the top of that list.Until I started writing this article, I wasn’t even sure what country they’re from or what their season is. Well, thanks again to the Internet, I’m now a mango expert (or a mango maven, as my relatives from Brooklyn would say).There are, it turns out, six different types of mango sold in the U.S. Like most commercially produced fruit, the varieties have funny, anthropomorphic names like Tommy Atkins (grown in Florida and available between March and July and October and January). The other five varieties are grown in Mexico and Haiti (there are also others, in addition to the Tommy Atkins, that grow in Florida).Supposedly mangos are native to India, but American supermarkets don’t sell any Indian varieties, probably at least in part because of the difficulties of shipping fruit across multiple oceans and continents. I would imagine that Indian mangos are slightly different from the ones we get in North America and Latin America; certainly there is a lot of variety just in the ones that we produce here. Some are green on the outside and light yellow on the inside; some are light yellow inside and out. The ones I prefer have multi-colored wrappers and a golden interior. Naturally, it turns out that the ones I find sweetest and most appealing are the varieties that are lowest in nutrients.First, let’s note that all mangos are loaded with vitamin C (fights colds and cancer; most mangos provide 100 percent of your daily recommended dose) and vitamin A and beta carotene (good for your eyes). They also have lots of fiber, which is good for your digestive system and your heart.Normally, it seems that the most intensely colored fruits are the ones with the most nutrients. Mangos seem to be something of an exception; the ones with the most intensely colorful flesh are of course still really good for you, but the real nutritional powerhouses are the light yellow ones known as Ataulfo. These are grown in Mexico and are available between March and July. If you see one, you’ll know it’s ripe if its skin is slightly puckered. Or you can take the lazy shopper/chefs way out and go to Sharon Farm Market, and buy pre-cut, pre-peeled, pre-pitted mangos. You might not be able to find out which variety you’ve selected, but again, they’re all good for you so don’t get hung up on specifics.My personal favorite way to eat a mango is as an energy snack after I’ve been to the gym. They’re also a nice counterpoint to buttered toast and coffee at breakfast. If you get bored easily and want to use your mango as an ingredient instead of as a meal or snack, they’re great cooked and raw. Try them as a side or in a salsa with roasted meats. One of my favorite cookbooks, “At Blanchard’s Table,” has two quick preparation ideas: Peel and slice your mango, toss the slices with a little sugar and broil them for a couple minutes. Or cut your peeled and pitted mango into chunks and serve as a dessert with whipped cream; garnish with a sprinkling of brown sugar and cinnamon.The Coffee Shop restaurant at Union Square in Manhattan used to serve a chicken salad burrito called the Sonia Braga (named for the Latin American actress) that had mango and cashews and red onion in it; it was really delicious.Along the same lines, when I lived in Southern California I used to travel often to the Baja peninsula in Mexico. A favorite food there was fish tacos, sold on the street by vendors with pushcarts. These simple little hand-snacks were garnished with just a little crema and warm, cilantro-laden pico de gallo whose flavors had been mingling together all day in the hot sun. This variation uses a mango salsa. You can put it in the taco itself; or serve it on the side, along with some yellow rice and refried beans. The trick to a good fish taco is that the fish should be crispy and the tortillas shouldn’t get too soggy. Try using two tortillas; the inner one will absorb the juices while the outer one stays firm and dry. Fish tacos with mango salsaServes four1 tomato; 1/2 cup fresh cilantro; 1/2 cup mango; 1 shallot, peeled and chopped fine;1 garlic clove; hot sauce to taste; 1 pound firm, white-fleshed fish such as cod; 2 eggs;1 cup flour, plus more for dredging; 1/4 cup dark beer, such as Dos Equis (as long as we’re going with a Mexican theme); coarse salt and freshly ground pepper; cayenne or chili pepper, optional; vegetable oil for frying; small flour tortillasMake the salsa by chopping up the tomato, cilantro, mango, shallot and garlic and mixing them in a bowl. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot sauce. If you like hot peppers or tomatillo, bring them to the party, too. Set them on a sunny windowsill so the flavors meld together (this takes at least a half hour). Set your oven to a low heat, such as 250 degrees. Wrap your tortillas in foil and toss them in the oven, so they’re warm and soft (not hot and crisp) when you’re ready to serve. Whisk together the eggs and beer and some salt and pepper (probably a quarter teaspoon of each will be more than enough). Add some cayenne pepper or chili pepper if you want more heat. Whisk in the flour. Don’t overbeat it but try not to leave a million big lumps. Cut your fish into strips. Heat vegetable oil in a deep, heavy pan; it should be about an inch deep. Dredge the fish in the flour, then cover with the beer batter. Fry the fish in batches and drain on paper towels. In a perfect world, have your guests/family eat the fish as soon as it’s drained and a little cool. Put a little bit of fish in two tortillas and top with a little salsa and some sour cream (or you can buy authentic crema at the Latin foods store in Amenia, just outside the Freshtown plaza).