A light, yes light, and lovely fruitcake

Fruitcake. The scourge of the holiday season. How is it that something created with such good intentions is greeted with such universal scorn?

Let me start by saying that I like fruitcake. But then, I didn’t grow up in a world where fruitcake was a standard holiday gift. I’ve never ended up with five fruitcakes on my holiday table. I like madras, too, but as a  survivor of the 1950s once said to me, “That’s because you didn’t grow up with it.â€

True, some fruitcakes are terrifying to look at, such as the ones that have giant, shining and unidentifiable pieces of candied “fruit†on and in them (along with over-glazed whole pecans). I can’t imagine putting all that sugar and all those colored food dyes in my body.

How did fruitcake get to this place, where you can only give it to someone with your tongue planted in your cheek?

As with many things in life, fruitcake began as an object of intense love, centuries before it became an object of intense ridicule. Food historians believe that the first fruitcakes were baked shortly after the first dried fruits were brought to England and Europe from the Middle East, sometime around the 13th century.

Fruitcakes became associated with winter because they had fruit in them (which was scarce in winter) and because they can last for months after the fruit harvest — in fact, they can last for years (supposedly the record is 26). Why? In part because they’re loaded with sugar (which inhibits the growth of mold, if you use it in substantial quantities) and doused liberally with alcohol (which acts as a preservative).

Sugar and alcohol are not usually ingredients that we include on the “super healthy†list.

But dried fruits and nuts are very good for you, if they haven’t been “tarted up†with a lot of corn syrup and preservatives and dyes. They provide your body with fiber and antioxidants (and yes, a fair amount of sugar; but a handful of dried cranberries is much healthier than a handful of chocolate truffles).

And nuts  are full of fiber and other minerals and nutrients. They are a source of protein, calcium and more exotic essentials such as manganese and zinc. If you can, buy ones that are unsalted.

We searched around the Internet and experimented with a few different kinds of healthy, light variations on the traditional fruitcake. This one isn’t the classic dark, heavy, 7-pounder. Marsden Epworth, who is editor of The Lakeville Journal’s Compass arts and entertainment section, baked this recipe and our taste-testers found it to be flavorful and delicious. It tastes a little like a panettone, but isn’t as dry as those Italian yeast-based fruit breads.

Marsden warns that mixing the egg whites into the (heavy) batter is a chore. And she suggests adding some exotic dried fruits such as dried ginger. But, please, dear reader: no candied pineapple or maraschino cherries.

                                                                         Golden fruitcake

Adapted from a recipe at best.holiday-fruitcake-recipe.ever.com, which was taken from a publication of the California Golden Raisin board

3/4 cup butter (plus a little extra for buttering the pan);  1 cup sugar;  3 eggs, separated; 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar;  1/2 cup milk;  1 teaspoon brandy extract (or you can use a tablespoon of brandy, but reduce the milk by a tablespoon);  1/2 teaspoon vanilla; 1 3/4 cups white flour;  1/4 teaspoon salt;  2 cups golden raisins;  1/2 cup chopped dried apricots;  1/4 cup chopped candied orange peel (or dried ginger);  1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Butter and flour a bundt pan or mold that will hold six cups.

Beat the butter until it’s light and creamy. Slowly add the sugar, beating after each addition until smooth. Beat the egg yolks and then add them to the sugar-butter mix. Combine the milk, brandy and vanilla. Mix the flour and salt.

Then alternate your additions of the milk mix and the flour mix to the butter-sugar mix by first adding a little of the liquid and then a little of the dry ingredients. Fold in the fruits and nuts.

In a very clean bowl with very clean beaters, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar until they’re stiff but not dry. Fold the whites gently but thoroughly into the batter. Then pour the batter into the buttered-and-floured mold. Bake at 275 degrees for two-and-a-half hours or until the cake is done.

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