Summer's good, so is autumn

Those who pay close attention to this column have probably noticed that the subtext is always moderation.

Nutrition information changes constantly, and it’s dangerous to put all your eggs in one basket, so to speak (I mean, just try to keep track with current thinking on eggs and cholesterol and protein and the Atkins diet and ...).

Don’t get discouraged and decide that there’s no point in eating healthy foods. Just practice moderation. And keep in mind that if you try to eat seasonal fruits and vegetables, especially ones that are grown  locally, your diet should naturally (no pun intended; well, OK, maybe a little) adjust itself to include most of the nutrients that your body wants and needs.

Summer is generally a time of super abundance of foods with a lot of vitamin C (such as tomatoes and berries and sweet peppers). Autumn is the season of the yellow vegetable. These foods tend to require a little more tender loving care, in the form of peeling and baking and puréeing, but they are worth the effort.

For one thing, these are foods that harbor a lot of natural sugar and can develop an intoxicatingly sweet, caramelized surface if you expose them to high heat (try blasting fresh carrots in a 400-degree oven for about 10 or 15 minutes; butternut squash and delicata squash will probably take 20 to 30 minutes to get nice and sticky and brown on top; for fast cooking of sweet potatoes, try cutting them in half).

Nutritionally, the yellow vegetables (in general) have a lot of beta carotene, which is also known as vitamin A. In addition to being good for your eyes and having cancer-fighting antioxidants, foods with a lot of vitamin A also protect your lungs from the impact of cigarette smoking — first-hand and second. Of course, this should not encourage you to keep smoking, while eating lots of sweet potato fries. But it’s a good thing to know.

Foods rich in beta carotene are also particularly good for your heart; they keep cholesterol from cluttering up the walls of your veins, protecting you from heart attack and stroke.They appear to  help fight colon cancer. And it seems

that they also act as an anti-inflammatory, helping ease the

stiffening of your joints that comes with winter and with age.

Autumn Soup
Serves 6

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and sliced;  1 acorn

squash, halved and seeded;  3 carrots, scrubbed, not peeled;  

1 head of garlic halved horizontally;  1 cup diced shallots;  

3 large apples, peeled, cored and sliced;  garlic, baked;  

3 cups, more or less, chicken stock; 1 cup apple cider, more

or less; olive oil for browning; 2 tablespoons Cointreau;

salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.

   Bake the squashes and carrots in a 350-degree oven until soft and caramelized. Wrap cut garlic head in foil with a little olive oil, salt and pepper and roast with the other vegetables.

   Meanwhile, sauté the shallots and apple slices in a couple of tablespoons of good olive oil until they are soft and browned.

   Combine the cooked vegetables with the browned apples and shallots, stirring in two or three cloves of roasted garlic.

   Add chicken stock and cider gradually and purée with an immersion blender until the soup has a consistency you like.

   Season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a dash of Cointreau, the last, optional.

   Heat or serve at room temperature topped with a dollop of crème fraîche.

      — Marsden Epworth

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