CSAs: The new face of farming

HARLEM VALLEY — “It’s fabulous,� said Taconic resident Joanne Klein. “The quality is unbelievably good, and it’s often an introduction to foods that I wouldn’t have ordinarily known about or tried before.�

Klein was with her friend, Erin Edwards, at Sol Flower Farm last Saturday, July 10. The two recently purchased a share in Sol Flower’s CSA program and are sitting in front of an enticing array of fresh vegetables and flowers that are laid out every Saturday morning for members to stop by and take home.

“It was time to take the plunge and really support a CSA,� Klein added. “You’re right at the source. It’s all local and healthy and you’re supporting agriculture. You’re supporting the farm itself and keeping it going.�

Sol Flower Farm is just one of several CSA operations that have started up programs this year. CSA, or community supported agriculture, is a relatively new approach to farming that attempts to eliminate the gap between the production and consumption of food.

The idea of a CSA is that contributing members invest financially into the farm operation itself. They are rewarded with shares of the harvested crop, which can vary with the season and the weather. Many CSAs encourage members to actually participate in the farming process, giving them a clear idea of how the food they’re eating is being grown and harvested.

“The whole idea of a CSA is that people become connected to where their food is coming from,� explained Andy Szymanowicz, Sol Flower’s manager.

Sol Flower is run on land leased from Jerry and Iva Peele, who own and operate Herondale Farm in Ancramdale.

Sol Flower is in its third year as a farm and now cultivates about 10 acres of land with more than 40 varieties of vegetables. There are currently about 40 members signed up for Sol Flower’s CSA program, a 22-week program that runs from June to September.

Szymanowicz operates the farm with help with Jessaiah Zune, a college friend, and two full-time apprentices who work from April to Thanksgiving and are provided with room and board and instruction from Szymanowicz in return for their work.

More than 20 miles south of Ancramdale there is another burgeoning CSA operation, the Wassaic Community Farm, located on leased land close to the center of the Wassaic hamlet. That farm has 80 different varieties of vegetables and culinary and medicinal herbs, which make it fairly unique among other community farming operations.

“CSA is a great way to involve the consumer more,� said Ben Schwartz, “so that they know where their food comes from. The connection is super important.�

Schwartz, with help from farming partner Betsey McCall (who is also the North East Community Center Farmers Market manager), runs the day-to-day operations of the farm. Wassaic is also in its first year as a CSA, but is only cultivating about an acre of land.

Less than 10 CSA agreements have been signed at that farm, despite the fact that Wassaic offers a monthly share program that lets consumers purchase shares by the month instead of all inclusively.

The Wassaic Community Farm is more expensive than Sol Flower ($35 per week versus $25 or $27 per week in Ancramdale, depending on whether one chooses the full season 22-week share or 14-week summer share). But there is the option of trying out a CSA program without committing to an entire season at Wassaic, “a good introduction and good for people who travel in and out of the area,� Schwartz said.

The average CSA member at Sol Flower is upper-middle class, acknowledged Szymanowicz. Schwartz said that his members include weekenders from New York City as well as artists who currently have residencies with the Wassaic Project, situated in the Luther Barn a few hundred feet from the farm.

Another distinction is that many CSA programs are started and operated by younger farmers who break the stereotypical mold of farming being a family business.

Schwartz is 32 and Szymanowicz is 31. Both grew up in suburbia, Schwartz in Nyack and Szymanowicz upstate in Rochester. Both had their first experiences with agriculture in their early 20’s and finished college with agricultural degrees, Schwartz in permaculture and Szymanowicz in forestry.

“My generation of farmers are starting farms all over the country,� Szymanowicz said. “I think it came together with people who have been doing this for 20 years. We didn’t start the movement, but we’re continuing it.�

Community supported agriculture has roots in Europe and Asia in the 1960s, but really started making an impact in the United States in the mid-1980s. The most recent U.S. Department of Agriculture census in 2007 reported that there are more than 12,000 CSA operations in United States, including 364 in New York.

But the Harlem Valley is far from overflowing with CSAs. Schwartz estimated there were only four or five others in Dutchess County. One of those is Sisters Hill Farm in Stanfordville, a not-for-profit organization owned and managed by the Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent De Paul of New York. Started in 1999, the CSA has grown in 11 years to five acres with more than 200 members.

Both Sol Flower Farm and Wassaic Community Farm pointed out that CSA farming should be available to everyone, not just those who can afford it.

“We’re always trying to get our food out to lower income families,� Szymanowicz said. “We give donations to food banks from shares that don’t get picked up. We don’t want to make this kind of food an elitist thing.�

When discussing prices later on, he continued that Sol Flower was more than willing to work with customers if they couldn’t afford the full up-front payment and that special arrangements could be worked out. “We’re not just going to turn somebody away,� he stressed.

Wassaic Community Farm participates in a subsidized share program, and through “generous donations,� Schwartz said the farm has received, there are still two or three shares available at substantially reduced prices for families that otherwise wouldn’t be able to afford it.

Being certified as an organic farm carries clout with consumers these days, but none of the CSA farms mentioned here have that certification. Schwartz said that he felt organic certification was a more important label for farming operations that had little direct contact or relations with the people purchasing the food.

“Here, you can come out and see exactly what our growing practices are,� he added. “I think [organic certification] is pretty unnecessary here.�

Szymanowicz said that being labeled organic was not as important to him as being able to have a relationship with the consumers and being able to talk openly about the farm’s practices.

“We’re trying to create a healthy system, not just plowing up thousands of acres and calling it organic,� he said.

That taps into one of the many  motivations behind a CSA farm, which according to the farmers interviewed is less about the business aspect than it is about what it represents.

“It is a great business model, but I want it to be deeper than a business model,� Szymanowicz said. “I want it to feel like a community, where people can come to a farm and see friends. Creating communities, that’s where CSAs originally started off and I don’t want to lose sight of that.�

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