A Brief Encounter


   One of the joys of traveling is the chance to encounter fellow musicians, often recognizable by the instrument cases they are toting. Violins and cellos are usually easy to spot, but in the Seattle airport last week, I noticed a middle-Eastern-looking gentleman carrying an unusual case with a rounded bottom and some rectangular protrusions at the top. Curious to find out what it was, I introduced myself. He spoke very little English, but was traveling with another young man who did a bit better.

   Long story short, they were both from Iran, here courtesy of our tax dollars on a three-week State Department-funded cultural exchange. Many of the 13-person contingent were musicians, including the two I met—Seyed Arash, a master of the tambur, a cousin of the oud and balalaika, with one drone string and two melody strings both tuned to the same pitch. His companion, Hamed Sabet, is a 30-year-old composer of orchestral and film music. I wanted to continue the conversation so we exchanged e-mail addresses and I arranged a meeting at their hotel on the last night of my stay.

   Through their excellent interpreter from Washington, I learned a lot about musical life in Iran — low wages, little opportunity to travel like this, but some good orchestras with knowledge of Western music and 80 films produced every year with 1,300 composers vying for the chance to score them. Women are permitted to perform in public only for women. Hamed’s tastes in music were very similar to mine, and an hour’s conversation went by quickly. Seyed arrived and I was asked if I would like to hear some of his music.

   Having sampled his astonishing talent on YouTube by that time, I was thrilled, and a few minutes later sat in his room, spellbound by the extraordinary melodies he drew from the tamboura. In between he shook his head and said how bad his playing was, while I shook mine in disbelief, thinking how fortunate I was to have stumbled into this meeting with a master.

  

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