Life Changes in the Northwest Corner: The Coming of the East-West Railroad


The geography of western Connecticut makes east-west travel more challenging than north-south travel. This is because all the valleys and mountains run north-south, requiring constant climbing and descending as you travel east or west.

While Connecticut has navigable rivers, they are few in number and none reach the Northwest Corner. These features placed a natural limit on east-west travel for Northwest Corner residents before the advent of an east-west railroad. East-west rail service was delayed by the challenges of construction for about 20 years after the first rails passed through Canaan to provide rail service to Northwest Corner residents. Indeed, at one point it was easier for our ancestors to get to Bridgeport via the Housatonic railroad than it was to get to Hartford via the Greenwoods Turnpike.

East-west rail service finally came in December of 1871, when the Connecticut Western Railroad was completed from Hartford to Millerton. It was a difficult job. The Connecticut Western was plauged with grades and curves, having almost no straight track, but it provided the much needed east-west link. This ambitious rail project stemmed from the efforts of one person: Egbert Butler of Norfolk, who had the vision to see what the railroad would mean and the energy and organization skills to make it happen.


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This tale shows part of the impact the creation of that railroad had on life in the Northwest Corner. During the summer of 1872, the first summer of service on the new railroad, the Connecticut Western offered a day trip to Hartford with a cruise on the river. To understand what this meant, you have to realize that prior to this time a round trip to Hartford in a single day was a virtual impossibility, much less a round trip with a cruise on the river.

As you read the following account, which appeared in the Connecticut Western News (then published in Salisbury), you can’t fail to feel the enthusiasm the trip generated. It is also interesting to note how many people traveled to Hartford for this event. Also recall that it is quite likely that most of the "excurtors" had never been to Hartford nor cruised on the river. Note also that a number of travellers who were not on the excursion joined it for the trip home in order to have more time in Hartford than the regular train allowed. This is a sure sign the the new railroad had stimulated travel and trade along the east-west route.

It is clear from the tone of the writing that no amount of difficulty could have dulled the enjoyment of the author. The trip must have been exceptionally scenic, too. The trip from Salisbury to Winsted, passing through Twin Lakes, East Canaan and Norfolk, must have been breathtaking, so we can forgive the author for gushing just a bit with enthusiasm.

For those not familiar with early railroad equipment, be advised that it is absolutely astonishing that a locomotive the size of the "State Line" could pull 15 fully loaded passenger cars from Harford to Winsted. It would have been impossible for that engine to bring the train home to Millerton. At least the railroad managment knew that much and had another locomotive ready to help in Winsted. As you will see, the train almost got stuck in Winsted anyway. This trip must have been the talk of the town for awhile and encouraged more travel for both business and pleasure.

For more than five decades this east-west railroad served as a major passenger and freight artery for east-west travel. Today only little remains to mark the route of this remarkable railroad. Try to put yourself in the summer of 1872 and imagine what this trip was like.

Here is the story of the "The Grand Excursion."


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"Not many finer mornings has there been of late, than was last Saturday morning, and at exactly the advertised time the excursion train drove into this station [Salisbury], already quite heavily loaded by the large delegations from Millerton (something like 80), Ore Hill (25), and Lakeville (38). After eighty-one or two more from this station, with their extra car, were taken on, we whizzed up through the swamp, and with the 32 from Chapinville [Taconic], on over the lakes and mountain to Canaan. At this station more cars were added, and with 19 from Ashley Falls and a few from East Sheffield, nearly eighty more were added to the train, behind which that bobtailed engine, the "State Line", (well, — you needn’t laugh at that engine; it can out-run and out-draw any other engine on the road,) was hitched to push us over Norfolk hills, and it did it too, making good running time. At East Canaan from 20 to 30 more; Canaan Valley a few; West Norfolk 12 or 15, — but what is the matter with Norfolk, with its 15 or 20 only for this particular occasion? Never before did this staunch old town fail to come to time on any similar occasion. West Winsted and Winsted added about 150 to the already heavily loaded train, also three additional cars, in one of which was the Gilbert Cornet band.

"Thus it was the entire route; every station adding its quota to the train, which was everywhere greeted by the waving of handkerchiefs and hats. It was remarked however, and we think the assertion is correct, that much the greater portion of the load were from stations west of and including Winsted. The inmates of every car appeared to be enjoying themselves hugely, as was evinced by the multitudes of smiles which were constantly chasing each other over their countenances.

"At Canton, somebody sung out ‘Five minutes for refreshments,’ when instantly Tom Wells bounded into an adjacent corn field and, confiscating a green pumpkin shied it into the car, looking behind him at every step, to see if the owner’s dog was not after him. Tom won’t steal unless he is hungry.

"We arrived in Hartford with 12 long cars loaded, all to their fullest capacity; and we were not only on time, but about five minutes ahead which shows the good management of the Conn. Western road; all working like clock work and to the satisfaction of all.

"From the cars a procession was formed, some marching through one street while others went other ways, but all stringing along through the city to the barge. The first object of interest which came to our notice, while marching arm-in-arm with Engineer ‘Kib,’ was a crank organ, playing ‘Buy a Broom,’ with the ever present monkey. Having no loose change about us, we bought no broom, but swept along the paved ways to the ‘Francis Risely’, which we found being rapidly loaded with Western Connecticut.

"We were informed by Conductor Eggleston, the train brought into Hartford something like 950 or 1000 persons, and as the barge was said to accommodate 1200, it was not so much crowded as to be unpleasant, and at twenty minutes to 11 o’clock it started on its trip down the river.


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"After a vigorous assault on the small stack of pies, cakes and sandwiches in the hold, by a portion of the hungry crowd, who were so fortunate as to discover their presence there, and who were not long in entirely clearing the board, presenting to those who had not made the early discovery, and who after their five o’clock breakfast and long ride, possessed appetites that would have relished a well cooked dog, an aspect by no means agreeable; yet a cup of coffee or tea on the deck above, made by that chap with a cigar in his mouth, who looked cross enough to chaw nails, made the matter endurable until the good time coming when all could be fed.

"As we had started to say, after this skirmish amoung the pies-’n things, the party proceeded to enjoy the sail down the river. Although hot on land, it was comparatively cool on the boat, till toward the latter part of the trip, when old Sol seemed to get a fair chance at us and warmed us in fine style. Altogether the sail was delightful, and Western Connecticut drank in a very satisfactory amount of comfort. Yonder, ahead, is the tug boat, puffing and wheezing away at the end of a rope 150 feet to 200 feet long, and smoothly we glide, with scarcely a ripple to disturb the mirror-like waters.

"By the side of the man at the wheel, stands a Mr. A. Moore, the judge, studying navigation, while about on the upper deck, sit groups of excurtors in various attitudes; below the quadrille band are fiddling on their bugles and whistles, and the gay and festive ‘eight hands around’ are

‘Turning about and wheeling about, and doing just so,

An’ ebery time they turn about, they jump Jim Crow’


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"As we do not stop at flag stations, we make no halt at the short wharf with the barn looking building near and what is called Glastonbury landing. Here comes ‘Susan,’ with four toots of her whistle, as a salute of course, a mongrel sort of vessel half or two-thirds masts and the rest coaxed along with steam, but on we go, the scenery being delightful, and all happy.

"Near the end of our trip down, the extensive brown stone Portland quarried heave in sight, and a sight it is to behold. Acres and acres of beautiful blocks of free-stone are thickly arranged along the banks of the river, ready to be loaded on the continuous string of vessels at their numerous docks, and beyond on the hill in the distance is the stately asylum for the Insane.

"Here is Middletown, where we turn about and commence our home run. Middletown is something of a place we should judge, yet but little idea of it could be formed by the limited view of it from the river. It is plainly evident we are going up hill, or in other words, against the current, as our pace is wonderfully slackened. Oh, for a donkey to hitch in front of that tug boat to snake it along!

"There goes a brig and she salutes us too; the musical notes of an old fog horn come rippling over the water, but the will for the deed is considered and the salute duly accepted.


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"Now then comes the sensation of the day. If any are beginning to regard the ever-changing scenes on the river as monotonous, that unwelcome sensation is dispelled the instant they hear Silvernail, the singist trill his dulcet notes.

"Speaking of singing, the prettiest feature of the entire trip, was the lady and gentleman sitting off one side of the boat quietly singing, apparently for their own amusement, and so quietly did they sing, that only those in their immediate vicinity could hear them. Such accurate time and harmony, with their subdued tone, their voices blending like two drops of water when brought together and becoming one, reminded us of the charming music of a flute and cornet, whose tones are softened by a distance over the water sufficient to make them but just heard.

"This, with their modest demeanor, won for them our admiration, however others who heard them may have regarded them. By a skillful manuever we ascertained their names to, Miss Herbert, of New York, and Mr Berry, of Bridgeport, but formerly of Sharon.

"As we ascend the river we notice on the west side, a vast extent of country, which seems perfectly level, and as far as the eye can reach not a fence is visible. What prairie is this? One man cannot own as much of the state as this section takes in, and if so, what use is made of it, that no fences are necessary? Tell us, Oh, Judge; ye who have studied navigation on the raging Connecticut.

"There, off goes the band, with one of their soul-cheering marches, which merits and receives words of praise on all sides. We had occasion to speak of this Gilbert cornet band, when they were at the picnic at Lakeville and we have now to say, that if there are any who do not think they played admirably last Saturday, they are ordered to report forthwith to this office and we’ll talk it up.


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"After three cheers for Conductor Eggleston for the successful management of the excursion, and which were heartily given, the boat landed and all were allowed an hour and a half for tea, which was obtained at the various hotels and restaurants in Hartford.

"At twenty minutes to seven o’clock the train started for Millerton. It was now increased in length by the addition of three cars, and which were all heavily loaded, as there were a large number who should have gone on the regular train, and who were not members of the excursion party, but stayed to go on this train, in order to have two hours more to do their trading in the city.

"With one locomotive, —and there was an oversight, as there should have been two, — we moved slowly toward home, but soon increased to a better rate of speed, getting along very well till we got to Simsbury, where the grade is so heavy, that ‘a long pull and strong pull’ j-u-s-t brought us over the grade, but we could not make rapid time.

"At Winsted a delay was necessary to let the milk train get in and out of the way, and when the train started up to get past the side track to allow the extra locomotive a chance to get out and help push us over the Norfolk hills, it moved slower and slower, till a dead standstill was reached; not a foot further could it get, the fifteen long cars were too much; yet only about ten feet further was necessary to let out the engine.

"The matter was remedied by a car being cut loose and run down, and the engine got out, and hitching to the detached car, brought it up, and drawing that, pushed the rest of the train along.

"Much complaint was heard of the this slow way of getting home. Many were asleep in their seats as it was getting late, (eleven o’clock,) but when the matter is examined with a view of giving all their just due, we think those who complained will ease up a little in their judgment.

"It is true as we said above, there was an oversight in not providing another locomotive at the start, and in this we think was the only mistake. Many were quaking with thirst; not a drop of water on the train, but all this would not have been severely felt, if we had got home as soon as we had ought.


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"Conductor Eggleston had a thousand and one things to think of outside of the cars to keep all straight. The engine could not draw the train, and to convey his orders from one end to the other at that place, where the embankments on either side were such that it was almost impossible to travel from one end to the other of the train, a quarter of a mile long, it could not be otherwise than slow work, but was it not safely done, with no accident to any one of the vast numbers under his care.

"At this excursion, people turned out in greater number than anybody had expected, and with this tremendous load of human freight, Conductor Eggleston seemed to fully realize his responsibility, and heeding not the minor complaints of some, he gave himself exclusively to the all important duty; to get them home as soon as he could do it without accident. Who among the number would be willing to trade the unpleasant features of their homeward trip, for a broken arm or smashed head?

"To be sure he had too much of train for one man to manage, but we were all brought home safely, and that feature alone covers a multitude of sins. The railroad company and all concerned meant to have everything go exactly right, this we know by the preparations for the occasion; every conductor on the road having given him written instructions for the management of their trains during the day, and all else done thought necessary to secure a success in every feature, and now who will scold? None we think, as all we have seen since, pronounce themselves satisfied; had a good time and glad they went."

 


Richard Paddock is lives at Twin Lakes and volunteers at Beckley Furnace.

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