When Slow Is a Fine Thing

Food and Books
Photo: Marsden Epworth

Bruce Weinstein is putting together a Paris-Brest, the dessert of champions. Bicycle champions, that is. This large round of pate choux filled with nougatine-laced pastry cream and showered with slivered almonds and powdered sugar once marked the 1,200-kilometer bicycle race from Paris to Brest and back, he tells me.

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